The Adventure Begins… Chasing the Sun

We left New Years Day to make our voyage to the Southwest.  There was a storm a comin’, our van was not winterized, and we wanted to beat the frigid temperatures to avoid getting stuck.

In some ways we were successful. Fast forward a few days and the eastern part of the US had snow, ice, freezing rain, and frigid temperatures.  It was, however, unseasonably cold in the central US as well.  In under 48 hours, we traveled over 1600 miles to Southwest Texas.  We tried to stop in Hot Springs, Arkansas along the way….but it was snowing with a high of 18, and entering a hot spring in the middle of the Omicron variant didn’t seem wise.

Deep in the Heart of Texas

Texas felt like home….in fact it was our home for 4 years.   As we travelled across I-20, we witnessed people passing on the shoulder of the highway.   Big beautiful blue skies.  Cowboy hats at every rest stop.  Bathroom mirrors in the shape of the state of Texas.  At a construction zone on the highway, 4X4 trucks off-roaded from the highway onto the frontage road to beat the pile up.  So, we did the same.  Super fun.  Yup, this is the Texas I remember. 

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We continue to experience a lot of interest in our tiny home, but we are less unique the further west we go.  We have become familiar with mapping the nearest diesel station, as well as the nearest rest stop each night.  It is an interesting dynamic, but no matter where you park your vehicle for the night (nature, truck stop, RV park) it does feel like “home” inside.  All the windows are covered, dinner is made in the kitchen, we sleep in the full size bed, we Netflix and chill.  As the song “Home” says, “Home is wherever I am with you”.

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We were very excited to hit up our first NP, Big Bend.  Big Bend is pretty much in the middle of nowhere, the southernmost tip of Texas on the Mexico border.  There is a border control station coming north from the park where mandatory vehicle checks are common.

A change of plans

We were no more than 1.5 hours into our voyage to Big Bend, when we ran over a piece of metal in the road.  A complete shred of a brand new tire.  Unsalvagable.  3 hours later, we had the tire changed (with some of our manpower, as well as the assistance of a local company to lift the RV higher than our jack would allow.   But, we then had to deal with the fact we were traveling into the middle of nowhere with no spare tire.  So, we headed back to town to procure a replacement full size spare, which was going to take 24 hours.  I did some yoga on the side of the deserted road just to keep my Zen on.  I can’t tell you how many vehicles stopped to try to help.  The kindness of strangers is amazing.  I think RVers just know stuff happens, and are willing to help each other.  It is a very friendly community.  #vanlife

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So, we made the best of it.  Fort Stockton is in West Texas.  The largest city around, with a population of 8000.   A balmy 78 and sunny.  Home of the largest roadrunner sculpture.  We experience our first RV park, and learned quickly were are not RV park people – imagine an RV suburbia.  

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We got to meet some folks on their way to Quartzsite, AZ, a popular winter RV camping spot.  They were going to the Rubber Tramp Redenzvous – 9 major gem and mineral shows, and tons of seminars for Vanlifers, attended by 10,000+ people.  The call it the Burning Man for retirees. Imagine trucks with RV cabs, pulling Jeeps with e-bikes on the back.  People that live or travel in their van full time.  People that need some place relatively cheap to live all winter.  People that want to simply and live easy. That’s the vibe. Watch Nomadland to learn more.  

Big Bend….worth the drive

With the new spare in tow, we made the trek to Big Bend. It kind of felt like we were driving into the middle of nowhere.  Completely parched land.  Mountains everywhere.  We stopped every chance we could to fill up the diesel tank (it only holds 18 gallons with low gas mileage) since there are no gas stations once you get to the park.  We were so glad we made the trip.  Got to witness sunset through the window lookout trail.  The cacti were beautiful.  Saw a few animals.  We were on bear and wildcat alert but saw none.  It is a national park most miss given the drive, but we are glad we didn’t.

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It takes 2.5 hours to get from Big Bend to any type of meaningful civilization.  By this point, it was well beyond dark, so we pulled off to a picnic area to take in the night sky.  There really aren’t proper words for it.  It was magical, more starts than I have ever seen in my life from end to end in the sky.  The darkest black sky accompanied with the whitest brightest expansive number of stars.  A small crescent presenting against the visible dark side of the moon.   A spiritual experience, free of any light pollution. I wish a camera could do it justice.

Guadalupe….the most beautiful spot in Texas

Today, we travelled to Guadalupe National Park, at the border of New Mexico and Texas.  Hiked McKittrick Canyon, known as the most beautiful spot in Texas.  Such beautiful green terrain within substantial mountains.  Pines, cactus, grotto, the clearest water running over the whitest rocks, with a backdrop of the bluest skies…it was beautiful.

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We have our satellite phone always should a call be required.  More for my piece of mind than anything else.  I am learning to be flexible, be present, and enjoy what each day brings.  We are on our way to find a primitive site on some BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land in New Mexico to enjoy the rest of our evening.  And take in some more views of that magnificent night sky.

As we were walking the trail today, I asked John “How are you doing, babe”, and he responded, “Me, I’m great.  We are living the dream!”

Next up…..Carlsbad Caverns, and White Sands NPs!