People use both Farther and Further to mean more distance. English tends to favor farther for a physical distance and further for a figurative distance. On this trip we did both. Farther in our distance, and further in our relationships and connections.
This leg of our journey took us up the Western Coast north of San Francisco. We were chasing warmth, sunshine, and new experiences.
We were lucky to have all these things. The coast was unexpected – turquoise and royal blue water, white wave peaks, dramatic cliffs, and large black rocks. Dramatic fog rising off the cliffs in the morning, traveling across the shore. Sunshine attempting to burn its way through the smokey coverage.
Our first night was spent at the Golden Gate Vista point, where we woke to the most amazing views of the bridge. As I shared the picture with the locals, I was told “Wow, I have lived here all my life and have never seen that view”. Absolutely spectacular.
We were also able to fit in some extended time with the largest trees on our planet – the Sequoias. They spoke to us, invited us in, and showed us perfect peacefulness and harmony with the earth.
We kept desiring to go farther. There was so much more to see the longer we drove, but we knew at some point we needed to turn around and prepare for our trip home out of San Francisco.
We were beyond excited to reconnect with several dear friends who call the California Coast their home. They each showed us a unique vantage point and perspective of one of their favorite places on earth, and opened their lives for us to step in. And here we went further.
The Magic of Muir Woods
Our first stop took us to the huge coastal redwoods along Redwood Creek. We have been to Muir Woods before, when we had to park on the side of the road and walk two miles just to get the entrance. Overpopulated with tourists at that time, it wasn’t a great experience. Fast forward to this trip, and the park had initiated a reservation system. We arrived at the park on a weekday morning with only about 10 people in the park. We traveled the trail along the water, viewing the large trees beyond the railing reaching to the heavens along with extensive flora and fauna diversity.
There were quiet zones within the park, and I thought how lovely that was. To just be in nature without a single human voice. It made me wonder why every park doesn’t have a silent trail, maybe a “Library Trail” for those that are interested in a meditation walk. Those beauties deserve our undivided attention.
An extra bonus of being in Muir Woods, Mill Valley is home to some of our Parisian friends Mary and Roland Pappenfuss-Cline. We were able to reconnect over lunch and spend time in their beautiful home overlooking Mount Tamalpais. Their hospitality and smiling faces was a wonderful special event in our day.
Stinson Beach Laziness
We were ready for a lazy beach day and made out way north to Stinson Beach. It was quiet, clean, with tons of sand versus rocks. It felt like a well-kept secret. I walked the beach for miles, finding sand dollars and shells galore.
Some cool facts? Stinson Beach was home to Jerry and Carolyn Garcia. Janis Joplin’s ashes were scattered along this beach. So as John and I watched the sun set, we listed to The Grateful Dead and Janis, making it quite a relaxing afternoon.
Beautiful Flowers and Glass
We traveled up the California coast after this to Mendocino and Fort Bragg. Along the way, we stopped for the night at a vista point along the Sonoma Coast. What an incredibly windy road on highway 1 through the night in the fog. I found a unfinished Vista Point, and we parked, not quite sure what we would see when we woke up in the morning. And boy, were we surprised. We could hear the ocean far below but could only see the thick clouds blanketing the coast like cotton. It reminded me of a cloud forest. A view never to be forgotten.
I read about the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens and was hoping to see some early views of the Rhododendrons they are known so well for. Sadly, it was a little too early in the season. But we were able to see magnolias, tulips, daffodils, and succulents. The acreage off the back of the gardens reveals some spectacular private coastal views – no traffic and very limited people. Well worth the stop.
A fellow traveler in a National Park FB group suggested Glass Beach. True to its name, the beach is COVERED with interesting shapes and colors of glass. The sea glass was created from years of dumping garbage onto the area on the coastline – an official dump site for Union Lumber Company. Various clean-up efforts over the years have removed the trash, leaving the glass pieces, and the area is now owned by California Parks and Rec. The sunshine on the glass creates sparkles and vibrant colors against the coastal rocks and water. A great place to stop.
A Majestic Drive of a Lifetime
California 254 parallels Highway 101 and takes you on an amazing drive literally among the great sequoias. The drive known as “Avenue of the Giants” has a proximity to the mammoth trees that is mind boggling. No shoulders or guard rails, a white knuckle but well worth it. At times, I felt like I was the only traveler conservative enough to drive under the speed limit the entire route, and still feel like I was traveling too fast.
Redwoods in their Natural Sanctuary
The last National Park on our trip was Redwoods. The Tall Tree grove requires a permit that must be obtained online days in advance for only 50 visitors. I was bummed I didn’t do enough preplanning to make it happen. We were happily surprised upon arrival at the ranger station however, to learn they had a few left given the slow time of year. This hike has a locked gate, with a special code changed daily. Super exclusive. And we certainly know why after making the trip.
We were one of maybe 5 people on the hike. Super quiet, completely raw and unmanicured. The bottom of the trail has a one mile loop of the largest tree grove, surrounded by mossy growth everywhere hanging in the air like cobwebs. Stillness. Peace. The feeling of being dropped into a magical fern gulley. Sunshine bursting in where it can in small doses. We stood next to these oldest trees on earth and looked like the size of a bug, a feeling of insignificance. This was an unforgettable experience. Soaking in the strength and beauty of our elders.
We completed this visit with a bike ride through the Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway. Another drive that parallels Highway 101, but less busy traffic. The old growth redwoods coupled with moss overgrowth along the completely shaded road. Just beautiful.
That’s Not Hawaii, that’s Oregon
I did some research on the Samuel H Boardman Scenic Corridor in lower Oregon. 12 miles along the southern coast of rugged steep coastline with small sandy beaches. Spruce trees intermingled with natural rock arches and bridges. Fog over the water, the sun breaking through the trees where it can. Also known as the Gold Coast, it reminded me so much of the Hawaiian Islands. It feels undeveloped, hidden, secret, protected, and special. We were so glad we made the decision to go farther and make this a part of our journey.
Wine Country but Much More
We have some dear friends from Toledo that relocated to wine country. Tom and Serena Williams picked up after 20 years and made a big change. It was amazing to see them after 2 years. Serena has an amazing, demanding job that is challenging and rewarding. Tom is overseeing the building of their dream home with an infectious enthusiasm. And they took the time to show us this part of the US. We spent time in Napa, Sonoma, Glen Ellen, and Point Reyes. We hiked, explored, ate wonderful food, experienced wine tasting, and caught up on everything we could in the time we had. It made our hearts happy and our souls full.
San Francisco Fun and Love
San Francisco is the home to a very special friend, Deb Eller. When we moved to Paris, John and I met Deb and her husband Reed very soon after we arrived. They invited all 6 of us over to their home in 2ndarrondissement, the Bourse district, and the connect between our family was created immediately. Deb and Reed adopted our family as their own. Invited us over to events to meet new friends, taking us with them to their home in Bouzigues, came to our birthdays and Thanksgiving celebration. They were both full of love, warmth, generosity, and joy. They were both so helpful to us when our family was struggling, in times of need, not judging our warts.
That connection we made in Paris continued to this day and although we are many miles apart the moment we stepped into their home it was like we were transformed back to the last moment we were together. Magical relationships like that don’t happen much, and I feel very blessed to have them.
We walked for miles and miles and miles. We took buses, trains, trolly cars, actual cars. And we were everywhere. Golden Gate Park, Twin Peaks, Fisherman’s Warf, the Castro, the Mission, Fort mason, downtown. San Francisco is an amazing place with so much to do and see. And it felt like we did it all. What a wonderful city to explore.
Deb lost Reed a few years ago, which is incredibly painful. But we certainly felt him with us during our entire visit. Walking with us on our sightseeing jaunts, critiquing the cocktails we were making, planning our dinners, and enjoying John’s puns as they would also go back and forth joking like two young boys. Deb and Reed are family.
We are headed back home for some follow up appointments for John in Cleveland, and Yoga Teacher Training for me. And we are anxiously awaiting the ability to see our kids whom we miss very very much.
I am actively planning the next leg of our trip, will take us across Nevada to discover all the parks in Utah, and there are many. We are looking forward to it.
We are thankful for the opportunity to travel a longer distance. We are thankful for the opportunity to reconnect with our friends and family afar. Farther and Further. And we are ready to take a pause.
I love reading your adventures Kim. Something I have thought reading previous posts, and this one just reinforces my thought…National Parks in the off season is the best approach. Safe travels
We have enjoyed the peacefulness of the parks in this environment. Thanks for reading!
You have a talent for writing and I do enjoy it so very much. With all of your beautiful photos perfectly placed. As I follow yours travels, I linger and pause, feeling the coolness in the forest, the moisture near the ocean, the sun on my face. Thanks you guys. 💜
Thank you so much for your kind words and interest!
You have had quite a trip. We have been at our new place since Monday. Need to go back to other house, but not sure when.g
Kim and John,
It makes me so happy that you are learning to love my home state. So many of those places are imbedded in my life and heart from my early years until we went out into the world.
Peace be with you!
Tis a beautiful state!